Sparkling Wine

 
CHAMPAGNE OF THE MONTH

R.H. COUTIER BRUT TRADITION GRAND CRU $34.95 [#325394] 
Champagne R.H. Coutier is located in the celebrated Montagne de Reims village of Ambonnay, where the Coutier family has lived since 1619. Today the family estate is run by Rene Coutier who farms twenty acres of vines all located in this Grand Cru (100% Echelle) hamlet. Coutier sells most of his production to the Grandes Marques reserving enough of the best juice to produce a modest 2,000 cases a year. Like that of his better known neighbor, Serge Billiot (of H. Billiot), this Coutier Brut is predominately (70%) Pinot Noir, but its Chardonnay component is much more expressive than with the Billiot Brut Reserve. In fact it was Rene’s father who pioneered the cultivation of Chardonnay in this bastion of Pinot Noir in 1946. The grape has done so well over the ensuing decades that it is now as a highly regarded as the village’s Pinot Noir. Coutier retards malolatic fermentation in half of his base wines in order to add raciness and structure to the natural opulence of his Ambonnay juice. The resultant blend is a grand yet very polished cuvée where the red berry character of Pinot Noir takes a back seat to savory notions of breadfruit, lemon curd, toasted grains and honey. This, then, is a seamlessly configured Brut that deftly combines richness and grace at a price attractive as the Champagne itself.

E. BARNAUT BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU $31.98 [#352371] 
One of the neat things about estate bottle Champagnes is they can embody both the personality of the vigneron as well as conveying a sense of place. This is certainly the case with this bold offering from Barnaut. The grapes for this 100% Pinot Noir bottling are all sourced from Bouzy, a grand cru village that is famed for producing some of Champagne’s most intensely flavored Pinot Noir. The gentle sloping amphitheater of vines that rises up from the town represents one of the most famous vineyard sites in Champagne. Barnaut is run by Philippe Seconde who is the grandson of Edmond Barnaut who founded the firm in 1874. Seconde is a fastidious and proud man that sells the lion’s share of his grapes to the négociants while keeping the best 10% for his family’s marque whose yearly production totals less than a thousand cases. Philippe accentuates the inherent vinosity of his Bouzy Pinot Noir by handpicking his crop later than anyone else in the village. Also, all Barnaut Champagnes are aged at least five years after the blend is created, a practice that imbues his lineup with rich textures and complex autolysis flavors. Our favorite cuvée is his Blanc de Noirs which displays a pale gold color with a glint of copper while its gentle effervescence releases deep aromas of baked golden delicious apples joined with undertones of smoke and toasted oats. As one would expect, this is a big-- but not brash-- Champagne that impresses with its well-integrated citrus, sourdough and red currant flavors that morph into pleasing graham cracker notes in its long, very Brut finish. This is a sumptuous main course bubbly that compares well to Bollinger’s Brut Special except that it costs a whole lot less.

LOUIS DE GRENELLE BRUT ROSE “CORAIL” $13.98 [#325362] 
Situated on the left bank of the Loire, between Angers and Tours, Saumur is a historic city dominated by the 14th Century Saumur Castle, one of the most famous castles in France. This castle, like the many châteaux of the Loire Valley, is built with the same tuffeaux limestone that envelopes the extensive (two and one-half kilometers) wine caves of Louis de Grenelle (founded in 1859, it's the last family-owned sparkling wine company of consequence in the city). The fruit for this fizz is 100% Cabernet Franc derived from the hilly Saumur Champigny district, an area regarded as one of the best terroirs in world for the grape. The firm has the fruit picked by hand and sees that yields are kept quite low. This results in a world class Brut Rosé with a smooth texture and effusive fruit. Made with the classic Champagne method and possessing a very dry dosage, this budget bubbly’s flavors reveal a harmonious melange of raspberry, strawberry and lemon drop flavor inflections. While sampling it we were most pleased by its fragrant wild strawberry and floral aromas and by its striking fiery pink hue which reminded us of the wonderful autumn sunsets that we get to look forward to here in Southern California. What better libation, then, to toast the end of a glorious Indian Summer day or the start of an enchanted evening?

GREAT SPANISH BUBBLY FOR SUMMER

RAVENETOS I BLANC 2005 “L’HEREU” BRUT CAVA $17.98 [#325346]  
While the Spanish sparkling wine (i.e. Cava) scene continues to be dominated by the twin giants, CodornÌu and Freixenet, it is the smaller “boutique” firms like Juvey y Champs and Mont Marcal that are driving Cava sales growth in our store. To this latter group, we are pleased to add what may be Spain’s finest Cava house: Raventos I Blanc. Raventos I Blanc was founded in 1986 by Josep-Maria Raventos, a member of the CodornÌu family who wished to create a small, quality-oriented winery that would stand apart from the large co-ops in the area. Today they own about 300 acres of vineyards with a high percentage of Chalk in the soil, as in Champagne. This past April, Dr. Jay Miller reviewed this bottling for The Wine Advocate. (Note that the firm just added the vintage year to the label so that the “N/V” blend Jay reviewed is actually the same as this “2005”). Miller writes; “[It] was produced by the methode champenoise, unusual for such for such an inexpensive bubbly. A blend of Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada, it exhibits an attractive mousse and refreshing crisp acidity on the palate. Balanced, tasty, and with good length, this is a great value in Cava. 90 Points.” We, too, became smitten with this little beauty’s refreshing citrus, ginger and allspice flavors. It further charms with its freshness and buoyancy displaying an appealing “lightness of being” that one just doesn’t find in California fizz. Truthfully, one simply couldn’t ask for better bubbly for Champagne cocktails or casual quaffing on the patio. Salud!

A STEAL FROM LE MESNIL

GUY CHARLEMAGNE BRUT RESERVE BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU
(LE MESNIL-SUR-OGER) $29.99 [#347552]
Thanks to the fame of Salon and Krug, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is probably the most famous village on Champagne’s Cote des Blancs. Rivaling these Grandes Marques in Mesnil are several small, overachieving domaines like Turgy, Pierre-Moncuit and Guy Charlemagne who consistently offer outstanding values for savvy Bubbleheads seeking serious Chardonnay-based Champagnes. Founded in 1892, the small (10,000 cases per year) house of Guy Charlemagne remains a father and son operation with a single-minded forcus on quality. Champagne authority Richard Juhlin writes in his book, 4000 Champagnes: “Guy Charlemagne and his son Phillippe, make some of the purest Champagnes on the market, and the Le Mesnil character is, if possible, even more tangible than in the wines from neighboring Salon.” Their multi-vintage Blanc de Blancs has been a longstanding staff favorite, yet at a recent tasting we were still stunned by how well it showed against some very prestigious (not to mention expensive) competition. Originally rated 91 Points by The Wine Spectator a few years back, this 100% Chardonnay Champagne has really blossomed in the bottle. Additional cork aging has given it a subtle toasty/nutty persona that has created an intriguing backdrop for its delectable lemon chiffon, apple and mineral flavors. Open textured, with a graceful procession of flavors, this nearly mature Champagne has developed a refined, wonderfully nuanced demeanor that would truly put some luxury cuvees to shame. Believing that one can never have too much of a good thing, we placed a large buy for this gem and were able to negotiate a special price that has enabled us to turn a great buy into a downright steal.

CLAUDE CARRE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU $36.98 [#325317]  
The small Champagne estate of Claude Carre specializes in producing only Blanc de Blancs exclusively from the Premier Cru village of Trepail. The soil of Trepail is a chalky marl (with high limestone content) and the hamlet is a highly regarded “island of Chardonnay” located in Champagne’s “sea of Pinot Noir”-- the Montagne de Reims. All of Claude’s Chardonnay vines are fully mature and are blessed with a mid-slope elevation and a perfect southeasterly exposure. His cuverie is a masterpiece of design and cleanliness. The structure is built across many levels of cellars so the entire Champagne process can be totally gravity-driven. Malolactic fermentation is not blocked and no oak is utilized which all works to make his Blanc de Blancs very seductive and pure. This mono cru bottling is a blend of three vintages with the lion’s share (70%) being from the excellent 2002 harvest. In the flute steady streams of bubbles release scents of assorted citrus fruits backed by a pleasing cinnamon roll dough aroma. Lip-smacking Pippin apple and lemon custard flavors dominate the palate while the penetrating finish reveals savory accents of toast and chalk. This modestly priced Blanc de Blancs really delivers major flavor intensity and sophistication, qualities that most Big Name Houses don’t come close to creating except in their expensive tete de cuvees.

HENRI ABELE 1996 BRUT MILLESIME RESERVE $54.98 [#352177]   
While the popularity of French Champagne in U.S. has never been greater, Americans still ten to stick to the tried and true NV Bruts sadly overlooking the vintage segment where the most interesting and memorable Champagnes are to be found. With respect to vintages, 1996 is now regarded as the best Champagne year since 1985. It’s a not-to-be missed vintage that is even more important to the Champagne lover than 2000 is to a Bordeaux collector. As Importer, Terry Theise, says; “Great ‘96’s are incomparable. The essential flavors of Champagne have never been, could never be, more clearly rendered. They are ripe but galvanically urgent and sizzling.” If one ignores a few super expensive tete de cuvee bottlings, the better 1996 Champagnes have completely disappeared from store shelves. That is with the notable exception of this surprise parcel of ’96 Henri Abele that we were lucky enough to snag. Roughly equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, this 1996 has spent 8 years aging on the yeast and another four years aging on the cork. Because of the great acid structure of the vintage, this twelve year-old has just reached the threshold of maturity. This Wine Spectator review from late 2006 describes this beauty quite succinctly: “Dry and savory, featuring biscuit, grapefruit, tobacco and dried peach notes. Vivid, with a grainy texture and a long, supple finish. As much about texture as flavor. Drink now through 2020. 94 Points.” With the recent flurry of steep Champagne price increases, this 1996 Henri Abele has become an even better buy today than it was when it was first released two years ago.

PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART 1996 BRUT “LIESSE D’HARBONVILLE” $125.99 [#325254]
While quite fresh and showing the formidable structure of the vintage, this luxury Champagne really delivers the power and the majesty that one expects in a true luxury Champagne. Ployez-Jacquemart is still very much an insider’s Champagne; however, last year the house was shoved into the European spotlight when the prestigious La Revue du Vin de France gave the firm the highest ranking of any boutique Champagne producer. The “Liesse d’ Harbonville” cuvee is the family’s shining jewel and is a rigorously selected blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Primary fermentation took place in 225-liter casks and the wine was allowed to work in barrel for six months without malolactic fermentation prior to bottling sans filtration. It was then aged on yeast for a decade prior to release. This patient labor of love has wrought wondrous, golden Champagne with delicate aromas of apple sauce, lemon blossoms, biscuits, and oak while lemon comfit, ginger, mineral and discreet oak undertones grace the palate. This classic doesn’t really need time but three to five years of aging will undoubtedly yield further dividends.

DE VENOGE 1996 BRUT “CORDON BLEU” MILLESIME $55.98 [#352225]
This medium-sized firm had been off our radar screen for quite a while so we were shocked and delighted by this 1996’s incredible poise, purity, and drinkabliity. With just 10% Chardonnay this De Venoge is a black grape Champagne that is dominated by Pinot Noir from top crus including Ay and Verzenay. A year ago The Wine Spectator’s Bruce Sandersen, raved: “Very fruity. Displays both the exotic aromas and the vivid structure of 1996. Lychee, pineapple and papaya aromas mingle with lemon and mineral flavors. Well-balanced, with the exotic fruit notes returning on the finish. Still needs time. Drink now through 2020. 1,250 cases made. 93 Points”

CHARTOGNE-TAILLET 2000 BRUT “CUVÈE FIACRE” $59.98 [#352179]
We have long regarded “Fiacre” as a classy “thinking man’s” tete de cuvee. This 2000 could be the best edition ever. It is a classic blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir utilizing only the most desirable juice from the “center cut” (i.e. coeur de cuvee) of the pressing. This beauty opens with a fabulous array of scents that are suggestive of sweet almond pastry and Bosc pears embellished by floral notes of jasmine and honeysuckle. In the mouth one encounters luminous, well-toned quince and red berry fruit essences that gradually become subsumed by lively citrus, spice and stone elements in the resounding finish.

CAMILLE SAVES BRUT “CARTE BLANCHE” $44.98 [#379136]
The Montagne de Reims village of Bouzy is famed for producing some of Champagne’s grandest, most vinous Pinot Noir based bottlings. Saves along with Jean Vesselle are arguably the stars of the village. Allen Meadows, “The Burghound”, recently inked this praise for their “white label”: “Quite fruity with an airy, even layered quality to the nose with solid depth and plenty of punch and energy to the firm but not aggressive finish that delivers ample length. This is one of those pleasant examples that could be easily approached now because of the complexity the high [75%] percentage of Pinot contributes, yet I would hold this for at least 3 years.” A couple of weeks back we tasted this along side Bollinger’s excellent Brut “Special Cuvee” and found their flavors to be remarkably similar except that the Saves had better structure and a bit more flavor intricacy.